Monday, April 27, 2015

DO YOU SMELL FISH? TALES FROM THE ART MUSEUM - PART I



Vacation, all I ever wanted; Vacation, had to get away!

Waterbury, Connecticut, is not a place I would put high on my list of vacation destinations.  I end up there for the final road trip of my sports-mom career.  I like to do weird stuff when I go places, so I drive down early and head to the Mattatuck Art Museum. 

If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you already know that I am ironically surrounded by a busload of third grade students while I am at the museum, but there’s so much more to tell.  So very, very much more, because these are the tales of the truly awful things that I endure simply on account of being none other than me. 

First of all, I am worried that I won’t find any place to park in Waterbury.  This turns out to be an unrealized fear because there are parking spaces and parking lots all over the damn place, which is surprising since I am right smack between district and superior courts in a rather … (shall I just say shady?) … eclectic area.  I park in a lot that the map claims is near the museum, directly behind the YMCA on a side street.  The lot is free! 

So far, so good.

I try to follow a guy out of the lot who appears to be carrying an art portfolio.  His apparel is kind of folksy with a combination of artsy and fartsy, so I figure he must be going to the Mattatuck.  I get sidetracked making sure my windows are up and the car is locked.  When I look up again, Creative Guy has disappeared, but I swear I see his scarf trailing to the left around a building.  Figuring I’m good to go, I also head left through the side alley along the YMCA.

I immediately encounter a beautiful building with intricate Corinthian columns, huge ornate doors, and stained glass.  It’s beautiful, it’s majestic, it’s stunningly artistic.  I excitedly climb the granite stairs out front, enter the palatial foyer, and read the giant sign:

CONFESSIONS.

Confessions?  Holy shit, I’ve walked smack into a church.  Not just any church, mind you.  No, I’ve entered the holy mother of all churches: The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception.  Crap, crap, crap!  I’ve got to get out of here before someone holy sees me and tries to get me to confess, and then I’ll be responsible for the building falling down and the bleeding of holy ears from my litany of ill repute.  Right now the only thing I want to confess is that I’m lost.

I hustle out of the Basilica just as the bells start chiming the hour, furthering scary the buhjeezus out of me.  I now wonder if the artsy-looking guy I saw earlier might be a priest or something.  Maybe he’s the devil because he has simply vaporized.  I hurriedly head back the way I came, head to the right this time, and spot a rather modern looking brick building with the giant, colorful sign “Mattatuck” hanging from its front.  Apparently, actually reading signs is too obvious for someone like me. 

I enter the Mattatuck (right before the busload of children arrives) and try to pay the gentleman at the desk.  Instead, he starts telling me all about the two special exhibits they have going on in addition to their regular museum.  This is all wonderful, except that I am having a major hot flash right there standing across the desk from him.  He doesn’t seem to notice my red face nor the sweat beading up and cascading down my face, and he just … keeps … on … talking.  Finally, I buy an admission ticket, get a word in, and ask if it’s okay to take pictures of the artwork with my cell phone if I keep the flash off. 

“No,” he explains, “because we don’t own these pictures.  They’re on loan.”  Oh.  Okay.  You own the rest of the museum, all the historical artifacts.  I mean, seriously, don’t be a dick about it.  Suddenly he adds, “Do you smell FISH?”

Oh my god.  I’m having a hot flash, but I showered this morning before I left the house.  Did I forget deodorant?  Am I emitting some sulfurous stench?  Have I turned into the old lady in the nursing home who always smells like peepee?  I am momentarily flustered and stammer, “Um … no …”

Actually, now that he mentions it, the museum reeks.

“Someone cooked fish earlier, and my coworker says it still smells in here, but I can’t smell anything.  Do you smell FISH?” he repeats.

It’s not me!  Thank you, Yardley English Lavender; I don’t smell like old ladies nor fish, at least, not of which I am aware.  “Er, maybe a little bit,” I lie, then add, “but it’s really not noticeable.”

Before entering the regular part of the museum, I tour the two small galleries of on-loan works.  The first room has photographs in monster size by Avery Danziger, whose exhibit is entirely on The Gate to Hell, which is a 230-feet wide fire-breathing crater in the midst of the Karakum Desert in northern Turkmenistan.  I’ll be honest with you, I can’t keep up with the changing countries in Eurasia anymore; I don’t even know where Turkmenistan is.  I look this information up and discover it used to be Turkmenia, which doesn’t even begin to frigging help me. 

According to the pamphlet, Russian oil workers and geologists were  working a site dig when they hit some pressurized water and then massive quantities of natural gas, which they ignited, assuming it would burn off eventually.  Well, forty-three years later, the damn thing is still on fire because only a dumb-ass would believe that throwing a match into a huge-ass crater full of gas is a sound and intelligent maneuver.

Anyway, this guy Danziger has taken over fifteen-hundred images of the place, and a handful are on display here in beckoning old Waterbury, Connecticut.  These images are fascinating and eerie and somewhat catastrophic.  The place has been called Door to Hell as well as the name given to the artist’s show, The Gate to Hell.  Either way, I feel a little bit like I might be there between the hot flash, the fishy stench, and the sudden arrival of the forty or so elementary students who pour out of the bus and into the gallery to avoid the rain outside and to be the first one through the doorway, because we all know how important it is to eight year olds to be first, first, first!

Really, I don’t mind sharing the space with them as long as I don’t hear a single one of those little shits whisper, “Did you get a sniff of that strange lady over there?  She stinks … like FISH!”

(More Waterbury museum tales to come; tomorrow, the second gallery.  Don’t hold your breath, though … unless you smell that disgusting fish, then you should totally hold your breath.)