Monday, August 25, 2014

NEWBURYPORT REDUX



Four months after the last time I made this same drive, I find myself grossly disoriented.  That last time, spring begged to pop its glorious visage through the late throes of New England winter.  Hardened snow banks dwindled along the sidewalks, and ice chunks the size of Fiats choked the river.

Today the temperature is thirty, perhaps even forty degrees warmer.  So many trees have leafed over that I don't recognize the once-desolate drive.  The Merrimack, calm and cubeless, shimmers in its careless flow to the Atlantic a few miles away.  Runners, joggers, walkers, bikers, and skaters are out, weaving around families pushing prams as they jockey for select scenic sights from the sidewalks that form seams along the river banks.

The houses along route 113 are familiar and unfamiliar all at once, hiding behind budding flowers and lush bushes.  I nearly miss the teal house with the purple door because summer's foliage swallows it into dark shadows despite the blazing morning sun.

The winter parking for the café disappears, transformed into a marina-only lot.  I could park in a different private lot, roped off where the boats launch, but I opt instead for a dirt lot near the whale watch ticket booth.  It is quiet here for an early Sunday morning.  The café line is out the door, spilling into the marina lot.  I pop my head inside, cutting apologetically through the line to join my two friends who have already secured the table.  Not "a" table; "the" table, the baby grand piano shell that serves as our favorite writing spot.  We can be and have been productive at those other tables, those square tables, but we are ridiculously productive at this one.

My writer friends arrive with technology.  I'm still old-school, armed with pencils, pens, colored pencils, and a sharpener.  I've been toying with technology for years and may finally be jumping on the traveling laptop bandwagon, but, for now anyway, I'm all about wide-ruled notebook pages and a bevy of fluid gel pens.

The river outside the window just east of the route 1 bridge is surprisingly silent for a gorgeous summer Sunday.  Even mid-morning, yachts and boats of all sizes sit idle in their sloops, chomping at the docks for that trip out to sea.  It's almost sad watching the mighty fiberglass monsters bobbing listlessly in the midday glare.

So different and yet not.  The last time I was here, many of the vessels were dry-docked along the café parking lot, behemoths biding their time until the ice jams cleared the channel to the whale road and beyond.  How ironic that they are free yet remain in stasis.

(My terrible sketch of the piano table)
Even now, hours after I've arrived, Newburyport still seems drowsy, as if dawn still stretches over the buildings and the water, as if suburbia still sleeps while I write.