Friday, August 16, 2013

WHICH WITCH



I am sitting in Salem, Massachusetts, enjoying a little lunch with friends.  It is overcast, gray and ominous, but we take a chance anyway and sit outside on the restaurant patio.  Good gamble; the weather holds.

From my seat at the table, I have a perfect view of the street, and a perfect view of the back of a woman who is sitting on a nearby bench with a huge rolling suitcase.  I become fascinated with a large glass bottle she has sitting on her luggage.  It is clear glass, so I can see the contents, gray and brown water with rags of some kind floating in it.  It actually looks like a jar of garbage water, or the morning after a party when the beer bottles are ripe with leftover cigarette butts floating in the liquid residue. 

The longer I look, the sicker it makes me feel.

The woman is clutching something, a cane I think, but it turns out to be a long crooked, forked stick, like a primitive diving rod.  I try not to stare, but I am morbidly fascinated and repulsed all at the same time. 

Suddenly she reaches up and grabs something from under her upturned collar.  Her thin and bony fingers clutch a nest of gray straggly long hair, and she shakes her head until the mass tumbles into a frizzed ball of string around her shoulders.  She starts to turn around, probably sensing someone watching her, so I quickly return my attention to my friends, the menu, the sky.  Anything but this woman.  Her horrid mess of silver dry locks reminds me of my own hair before I cut it all off more than a year ago and again a few months before this when I realized I was sporting the Mad English Professor look on the top of my head.  It is a look that compliments no one, man nor woman, and this haggard bench-warmer is no exception.

I notice that she is dressed in black, hunched over on the bench in the middle of Salem like a spectacle.  A witch spectacle.  Part of the colorful landscape, no less.  For a brief moment, I wonder if she can sense my eyes on her, knows I am staring and wondering and imagining about her character.  Perhaps she might put a hex on me.

But I know the truth.  I am the one with the witches in the family tree (and hanging from it, to be honest).  I am the real deal.  She is nothing but a caricature, a model, an archetype of the myth that has become Salem, a showpiece, a trophy, a hobbit, a troll. 

Her showy glass jar with its ridiculous rags (possibly even her laundry) soaking, her rolling dark zippered valise, her stereotypical black clothing, her laughable gray hair -- she is a pawn in the game that was once a vibrant and normal village.  I realize that she has crawled under my skin not because she frightens me but for a different reason: she offends me. 

Every October for an entire month, the city of Salem becomes a tourist trap, a joke playing on and because of its history.  To those of us who lost family members because of the hysteria, to those of us with broken branches in the family tree, it's not funny.  It's not a profitable opportunity.  Knowing that damnable whacko Judge John Hathorne is buried within spitting distance of our dining table makes me mad with centuries-old rage.  And here, cluttering up my view, assaulting a perfectly fine afternoon out, sits an unstable woman who fancies herself a witch.

I've read the accounts of the trial of one of my great-great-etc.-grandmothers.  She is guilty, all right, guilty of being old, guilty of being cantankerous, guilty of being opinionated, and guilty of standing her ground.  As a matter of fact, it sounds like she's guilty of being me. 

So forgive me if I find the petty devil-worshipping of the ignorant to be offensive to my Salem roots and my historical senses.  You people have it wrong, all wrong, all goddamn bloody wrong. 

Salem isn't the joke; you are. 

You may laugh at the tourists and the locals as you rake in the money for your fakery.  You may laugh at those of us who've lived it, who have had the reality and the facts and the legacy passed down to us.  We with these deep-cutting Salem ties are not laughing with you; we are laughing at you.

Will you please go buy yourself some real clothes instead of traipsing around Salem with a black shower curtain tied over your shoulders.  Will you please go to the salon, for the love of god, and do something about your hair.  Will you please learn the history and understand that being a Salem Witch is to be a victim not a beggar in a Halloween costume. And will you please put that glass jar out of sight from the restaurant patio lest I lose my lunch and add my already-been-partially-chewed pulled pork to your park bench menagerie.